Markets — whether selling produce or spices, antiques or souvenirs — have long been places for gathering and commerce, microcosms of exchange that embody local culture. While some markets now sell imported goods and reflect a more globalized economy with the rise of tourism and modernization, many still remain true to their roots. A neighborhood farm stand or a floating market in Thailand are often the best places to sample local flavor, to do as the locals do. Here are some tastes from near and far:
In the village of Kartshok in the tiny mountainous country of Bhutan, the outdoor market is the primary source of ingredients for the community — all traveling from the farm to the table, before “farm to table” became trendy in the West. Here, farmers lay out their produce under the shelter of a permanent canopy, right in the center of the village. The focus here is local subsistence, since few foreigners venturing beyond the capital of Thimphu.
In a city like Salzburg, Austria, several daily and weekly markets draw locals and tourists alike. This mobile butcher satisfies those curious about homemade schnitzl, wursts (sausage), and other well-known Austrian delicacies. Even the very young have a chance to survey the scene and make decisions for their family’s dinner. When the market closes, the butcher shuts his doors and drives off, freeing the plaza for its nighttime role.
Open streets and town squares are common locations for markets, but markets can also be opportunistic, appearing in urban crannies where and when need arises. The Shek Kip Mei seafood market is one such example, set up in between towering public housing units on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong. It is one of the oldest areas of a city undergoing continual renewal, with the market accompanying some of the few remaining dai pai dong, or street food vendors. These days, the market is facing a decline partially due to the area’s aging population and deteriorating infrastructure, similar to Venice’s historic Rialto Mercato. The city looks to gentrification and ideas for urban renewal for injecting new life into the area, but these strategies might come at the cost of Shek Kip Mei’s unique character.
Lines of farm-fresh produce march beneath shed-like canopies at Washington DC’s Eastern Market, while artists sell their wares on the periphery. The farmers market in the USA originated in 1730 and has continued to be an important part of urban life and tourist interest, especially with the renewed interest in local food. Eastern Market now has both indoor and outdoor spaces, with brick-and-mortar shops and a community center anchoring it throughout the day and night. Conscientious planning keeps the market evolving.
An older form of market is experiencing a revival in the USA: the food hall. While these types of indoor spaces, primarily focused on selling prepared foods, have had a long tradition elsewhere in the world — from the open kitchens of Jemaa El-Fnaa in Marrakesh to the glass cases of Harrods in London — they have now become tools for redeveloping faded industrial properties into hubs housing pop-ups and hip food vendors. Los Angeles’ Grand Central Market is one of the country’s oldest food halls. It lies at the foot of LA’s Bunker Hill business district and demarcates the boundary between “slick” LA and the historic — but less affluent — downhill side of downtown. Accessible by the funky Angels Flight funicular — the “economic link” between the two faces of LA — one can move right through an immense urban block and land at the threshold of Central Market. The market, housed in a Beaux Arts building that echoes Bologna’s portico-lined structures, has recently experienced a renaissance after many years of deterioration. Some have criticized these new or revived food halls as destinations for tourists and the wealthy, but they do have the power to change their neighborhoods. Time will tell what kind of impact they will have on their local communities.
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Read more about the Market here.